- Guide
- Flavors
By Hong Hong
As Qing Dynasty scholar Liang Qichao once said, "A life filled with joy and curiosity is a life of value." This philosophy is perfectly captured by Quanzhou’s iconic kāikǒuxiào (smiling bun), a dish that has become the city's culinary symbol. Fondly known as the "Banquet God," this bun graces tables at celebrations, from weddings to Lunar New Year feasts. For me, childhood memories revolve around eagerly attending banquets, anticipating the arrival of these golden-brown buns.
A Bite of Tradition
The kāikǒuxiào is not just any sandwich. Its pillowy, soft exterior cradles a rich filling of marinated pork belly—carefully cooked until tender and infused with umami. The pork belly used in Quanzhou's version is jīng wǔbā (prime belly), known for its delicate layering of fat and lean meat. Each bite delivers a perfect balance of savory richness and subtle sweetness as the juices seep into the bun, creating a harmonious, mouthwatering experience.
Locals affectionately call it hǔ yǎo cǎo (tiger bites grass), a whimsical name highlighting the pork’s starring role. Why "pork-stuffed bun" and not "bun-stuffed pork"? The answer lies in the local culture: here, the meat is the hero, with its rich aroma taking center stage.
Crafting Perfection
Making a kāikǒuxiào is an art form. Skilled bakers begin at dawn, kneading dough to perfection to create a soft, delicate bun. The pork belly is then seared to a golden brown, glazed with fermented bean paste, black sugar, and a blend of spices—shiitake mushrooms, dried shrimp, and garlic—before being simmered slowly to allow the flavors to meld.
Once the buns are steamed, their signature "smile" emerges—a slight crack at the top, revealing the delicious filling within. Paired with fresh cilantro and crushed peanuts, each bite offers a delightful contrast of textures: the tender pork, the crisp garnish, and the bun that melts in your mouth.
More Than Food: A Cultural Manifesto
With over a century of history, the kāikǒuxiào is more than just a meal; it’s a symbol of Quanzhou’s spirit of hospitality. Locals proudly call it the "Quanzhou Burger," a nod to its universal appeal. The bun's simplicity belies its craftsmanship, offering a perfect balance of tradition and innovation.
Food critic Xu Xiaochun captures its essence: "The bun’s simplicity hides profound craftsmanship. It reminds us that true luxury lies in harmony—between dough and meat, tradition and modernity."
Recipe Snapshot
Key ingredients: Premium pork belly (marinated in soy sauce, sugar, and spices), all-purpose flour, shiitake mushrooms, dried shrimp.
Signature touch: A final glaze of sweet potato starch syrup gives the bun its glossy finish.